Fishing Loreto Baja California

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My friend Bob gave me a call last week reminding me of the great fishing we enjoyed a few years ago in Loreto after hurricane Marty hit Baja. The reason for the tremendous catch, according to the locals, is the great deal of debris that washes out to the sea along with nutrients to form shade on the sea . Fish congregate under it just waiting for skillful anglers like us. Well hurricane Jimena did the same thing a week and a half ago so we gathered our gear, made flight reservations, gathered our passports and of we went. We invited our friends; Javier had a prior commitment and Jorge quietly demur, he was not allowed to go. So we had to leave them behind. Sorry boys maybe next time. Bobby sadly uttered, "que lastima". I retorted apathetically "pues, ni modo". I can still visualize the sadness on their faces as we left without them.

With everything ready we left early for the airport, after boarding the plane, we had couple of thirst quencher and before we knew it we were landing, less than two hours, in Loreto International airport a tranquil, peaceful, small place with only one airplane on the ground at a time. Very relaxing after the turbulent pace at LAX.
Loreto, Baja California Sur was founded by the Jesuits around 1667. At one time it was the seat of government for all of the Californias. You can find beautiful historical building such as the mission our Lady of Loreto built in 1752. Or if you are interested in geology or anthropology take a study tour to many of the cave painting and hieroglyphic left by the early inhabitants thousandths of years ago. If marine biology or diving is your preference, you can take an Eco-tour to the Loreto Bay National Marine Park, christened by Jacques Cousteau as the aquarium of the world because of the majestic specimens of sea life, which can only be found in Loreto bay.
But we were here for fishing, upon arrival to our hotel we took inventory of all the equipment we would need for the following days. We made our arrangement through Blue Water fishing tours in Long Beach CA; bluewatertours@charter.net they took care of everything in a prompt professional manner. Once in Loreto all we had to do was to make contact with the Arturo's fishing fleet to insure everything was in order. Now it was time to relax by the pool with our margaritas until dinnertime.
(Bob making friends at Augies) (Bob and his special dinner friend)














The following morning a representative from Arturo's met us at our hotel and transported us to the marina, we purchased our fishing licence and bait. A box lunch, water ice and soft drinks were provided by Arturo's and of we went for our first day of fishing in the calm Sea of Cotez. We met a few anglers who wished to make their own bait, they thought $15.00 dollars was too much to pay, we met them again at sea a few hours later, they had no live bait, their lures and jigs were not attracting fish. They wondered if they could purchase some bait from us. Now as good sportsmen we shared our live bait with them. I would advice you purchase bait, it takes too long for you to catch bait and you are loosing the valuable time before the sun rises, you still have a boat ride of at least an hour to reach the fishing grounds. Further, you all ready paid too much money and come too far to worry about fifteen dollars for bait. Don't haggle, the price is set it's a commodity priced according to the local market.You pay much more in the states for bait.

As any experienced angler will tell you the first thing you hear from the local fishing guides that yesterday was a great fishing day or last week. As we headed our guides tells us; "ojala que tengamos suerte" let's hope for good luck. This is the usual disclaimer for all the previous boasting of past great fishing. The trepidations in our guides' voice changed as he stoically exclaims "pero le vamos hacer la lucha" this means more than just we are going to try hard, it connotes challenge between you vs the sea and the fish, we are going to have to fight for every single bite. Why? well... Loreto just completed hosting the International Dorado Fishing tournament the day we flew in and according to the reports half of the anglers failed to hook any fish and the winning fish was not a great specimen.

With all of this negative information, I must admit to you I was a little shaken. How can it be? things suddenly didn't seem very promising. What happened to the excellent conditions after the hurricane? The constant record size fish caught in past tournaments? The fishing news from last week said that fish were jumping into the boats? Yes I was a little shaken but not for long, because I brought a secret weapon with me. Any experienced angler, you must have one in order to have continuous productivity and high yield over the long run. Bob is my secret weapon, a high yielding machine! an angler with the golden touch, he can catch a fish with a rusty nail and a shoelace in the LA river. A fish catching apparatus, a man with Polaroid vision, a human depth fish finder. He can identify a fish by it's shadow, underwater and from the ripple pattern of the water. He can tell you the speed the weight and the color of their eyes fifty feet away. With bulls-eye accuracy he can cast a hooked sardine sixty yards on to the face of an incoming dorado, rooster or yellow tail. Once the fish is on it's just a matter of repetition. Our fishing guide exclaimed "que barbaro", fish have no chance. This is not a fishing tall tale. I strongly encourage you fisherman out there to get yourselves a Bob, one of those anglers who can't miss regardless of conditions or seasons, forget about the full moon, high sun or fast currents!

When the captain and I congratulated Bob on his good luck "buena suerte" he felt insulted and he pummelled, with a high pitch voice he exclaimed "this is not luck it's hard work! it's more than just throwing a line out there!... there are three ways to fish Loreto, he advised, one is casting a shiny spoon or jig, my favorite is a 7 in. chrome crocodile or light blue jig" he added, "today I prefer drifting a live bait, hook you bait on the hard part of the nose... do not" he admonished, "just cast you line out there and then sit and rest your pole on the holder, you need constant connection with

(The master angler showing his catch, top/buttom)


your pole in order to feel the fish nibbling on your bait" he demonstrated, "when you feel the strike don't rush to set the hook, let the fish enjoy the bait, let it runs a little bit, now! gently but forcefully, set the hook!!... don't jerk your pole or you will pull the bait right out of its mouth" , he warned. Well it worked for him he out fished me three-to- one. Bob favors a light casting pole about 7 ft. with a casting reel full of 17-20 lb. line, "nothing heavier than 20 lbs." he added. Well... friends

that why I like bringing "Good old Bob" fishing. At the end of the day we had a cooler full of fillets. Speaking of fillets, We would encourage you to stay with the person who fillets you catch, although the operators of the fishing fleets such as Arturo's are honest, hard working business men, we always end up with less frozen fillets than we start with. I would suggest that you count the number of bags after each day and write the number of the total of the bags and inform the owner/operator of the total number of bags you leave each day for the freezer, In reality, we really don't know how many people have access to the freezers. Make sure the hotel name and room number is also on the bags. There are a number of persons who handle the bags, from the person cleaning, filleting and bagging the fish and storing it. The bags are stored in large freezer with the catch from other "pangas" skiffs. The number of people who have access to the fish is unknown. But what we do know is that by the end of your trip there are less bags of fish to be found. We are sure that like us, you leave generous tips to everyone that provides a service to you and although we are sympathetic to the predicaments of the workers, remember we are paying good money for their services, it is very disappointing to see part of our catch disappear. This was the only discouraging part of our trip.

Would we go fishing to Loreto again? yes we have been coming here for years, it's a beautiful town. The people are warm and friendly, it's a peaceful and safe place. Would we fish with Arturo's again? yes, we fished with him many times before. Ask for Anthony he works hard for you and is not one of those "pangeros", fishing guides who is hurrying you to return to shore. If you are in a hot streak he is helpful and willing to assist you. We would also recommend Blue water fishing tours to plan your trip. For the best accommodations at reasonable prices, Hacienda Suites (866)207-8732 at the entrance of town on Salvatierra St.. For the best stakes we recommend El nido, next door to Hacienda Suites. The best nachos and coldest beer, with peaceful view of the sea, Desert Inn formerly La Pinta. The best tacos, El gran burro on Miguel Hidalgo, one block south of Salvatierra St. turn right at the only traffic light in Loreto. For those who feel they have been hanging around the locals too long, go have a drink and snack at Augie's on calle de la playa street, south of miguel Hidalgo street one block south, parallel to the malecon this is an expats. hangout. You know what anthropologist say, species of the same order like to stick with each other now and then. For the best Margaritas you'll have to go to LA or Long Beach, for the best fish tacos we recommend La bufadora in Irwindale CA. Sorry Loreto.

El Tajin; Veracruz,Travel

As my compadre and I debriefed our stay in Tlacotalpan, we agreed we had achieved our objective; listening to some outstanding musical Jaranero groups . We learned a great deal about the music, decimas, dances and culture of this beautiful part of Mexico Lindo. We also decide to, cut our stay short. Early next morning we were on the road heading north on Mex.180. The unspoiled, natural beauty of the countryside leaves you breathless. We leisurely continued north admiring the open spaces and hills adorned with the wonderful aroma of coffee, citrus groves and vanilla plantations. Soon we were turning onto Mex 130., After a few hrs. on the road we arrived in Papantla, the magical town, also known as the city that perfumes the world, a quaint colonial town with all the comforts of home. Built on the side of a mountain slope with cool breezes that constantly sweep through the town. We found a nice quiet hotel, after checking in we strolled around the town searching for a restaurant, eager to taste the local cuisine. The reader may recall that Javier considers himself a budding poet and song writer, so when he saw the name of a restaurant he exclaimed, "aqui vamos a comer", the restaurant's name "Por si acaso me recuerdas" If by chance you remember me.
My compadre felt the name was poetry :) located in calle Juan Enriquez #102 Papantla Mex. I felt that the real poetry was the food. A very intimate place no more than six tables. The cuisine? typical home cooking from Veracruz all prepared by Doña Rufina a friendly, jovial woman.Her husband Don Roque eagerly sat us down and explained the menu. We ordered a delicacy know as nopalitos con costillitas de puerco en mole, rice and black beans with tortillas calientitas topped off with a refreshing negramodelo, it was delicious. After our delightful meal and pleasant conversation with Conchita our waitress, we strolled slowly back to our hotel.
Papantla is popular place for tourist who are interested in ancient civilizations, the two main attractions in Papantla are the archaeological site at "El Tajin" and the "Voladores". The following morning, we got an early start and headed to "El Tajin" which means the place of rain and thunder in the Totonac language.
We arrived early, the morning was cool and crisp
and we were the first visitors in the center which means we had the place all to ourselves for the least two hours or so.
It is generally believed that the Totonacan civilization is responsible for building the site.
As we walked in we were drawn to a magnificent pyramid named "Piramide de los Nichoes" It is believed that it's 365 niches represent a calendar year it is said that they would light a small fire in each niche which marked the passing of time. The pyramid is also considered as one of the finest pre-Colombian Pyramids in Mexico.

Javier welcoming us to El Tajin

El Tajin has been recognized as a world heritage site by UNESCO it is also the archaeological place which displays the highest degree of artistry in the coastal area of Mexico. It is believed that El Tajin reached its peak between AD 650-1200. During this time hundreds of of native structure were build in this region. It wasn't until 1785 when Spanish engineers happened upon the site.



Above you can see the Pyramid "de los nichoes"

The site is meticulously kept, you can find a museum a souvenir
shop and a number of vendors and restaurants at the entrance
Throughout the day you can see the "Voladores de Papantla"
perform their dance and rituals. If you visit come early and have
a great time without the crowds.





Stay tuned:

Tlacotalpan the torturing of the bulls

We rose early and walked over to the town square for a nice breakfast before the crowds gathered. But to our surprise thousandths of people all dressed in red T-shirts were milling around, with some liter size beers, waiting for the running of the bulls. The t-shirt vendors had a real good day with their sales. The music coming out of many establishment also got an early start.

With the sun warming up the day, and the crowd growing rowdy with beer consumption. A wave of humanity moved slowly towards the shores of the river Papaloapan because for some sadistic enjoyment by the organizers of this event they bring the bulls from the other side of the river, some 300 yard of water torture inflicted on the bulls. When they reach the shore they are exhausted! Note the head of the bull is under water above. But the torturing and cruelty to these farm animal by the collective humanity gathered here in Tlacotalpan is shameful and just getting started.This is no running of the bulls like in Pamplona, Spain. This is the chasing of frightened farm animals, the inflicting of pain and suffering ranging from pulling their tails, kicking them, jumping on them when they are so exhausted that they just drop to the ground foaming at the mouth and letting out shrills of pain.




Would you think this is a fighting bull? of course not, it is a frightened one, quivering and frozen in place, note the bruises on its' legs from kicks it received from the courageous drunks because he would not move.










This is one of those brave drunk bull runners who felt "macho" and jump on top of an exhausted animal. It couldn't stand because they ran him down all over the village till he dropped.
This is a polluted gathering of of drunks whose only purpose, with government approval, is to buy beer and unleash random acts of cruelty on these animals. The towns' government is guilty of malicious indifference and complicity in condoning the sick behavior and atrocities committed in their " heritage to humanity town?" Give me a break!







This bull top and right is not dead he is "dead tired". They ran him all over the town, hoards of people chased him and them others on horse back chased him some more until it dropped. The fools standing around it were disappointed because he couldn't get up, so the would kick him, note the blood on the floor. Its' mouth was foaming as it let out a frightening squeal, bellowing as if it was crying out for help.

This bull was tied down to a post, I asked one of the persons, "por que lo amarras? Why do you tie him down? he replied "porque no quiere correr mas" he doen't want to run anymore. I asked him"crees que esto es un gran deporte para Tlacotalpan, mira como esta sangrado," Do you think this is a great sporting event for Tlacotalpan? look how he is bleeding" he replied, " si no tegusta pues no vengas" If you don't like it don't come back.
Well, he had a good point, I don't like this type of cruelty to farm animals used to plow their lands. I don't like the abuse tolerated by the local government, the mayor of the town was speaking that same evening on what a great event they hosted annually and she said that not one hair of any bull was hurt. Here is the proof, she lied. And I for one, will never be back to spend my tourist dollars in the sick cruel town of Tlacotalpan. I repeat, this town is not worthy of being a world heritage site.

Stay tuned... for a real world heritage site El tajin

Encuetro de Jaraneros at Tlacotalpan

We are arriving in Tlacotalpan, Veracruz. We are crossing the mighty river Papaloapan from the south.

We arrived in Tlacotalpan. As the readers may know this town was selected by the United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organization, UNESCO, to the list of of World Heritage sites. After witnessing the savage cruelty bestowed upon helpless farm animals by visitors and local alike with the approval of the local government. I would strongly suggest that UNESCO reconsider the inclusion of this town as a "world heritage site".
As I understand the reason why it is included on this coveted list, is the colonial architecture, Give me a break! a better example of this architecture can be found in Cuba and Puerto Rico. Personally I fail to see any overwhelming, distinguishing architectural differences from any other historical towns in Mexico Lindo.



Here is a sample of the kiosk in the central plaza, with it's Moorish influence and a typical home, are these really classic examples of Caribbean architecture???



We arrived on a Friday afternoon the festival would open next morning Saturday, therefore we were able to see the preparations or as a local small businessman called "le estan poniendo maquillage", they're just putting make-up on the town. We saw dozen of people painting the front of their homes with lively colors . Three churches around the plaza area, the two adjacent to the central park were being haphazardly painted by young man hanging from ropes slapping cheap paint on the walls. Scaffolding's are not known here. Preparing the walls; scrapping old paint, cleaning mildew, filling crack is an unknown practice, on the other hand, slapping paint over dirt and mildew is fine. Don't worry about the dripping gobs of paint on the floor, I asked one of the painters "why don't you put a drop cloth or newspaper at the edge of the wall to keep from dripping paint on the floor" he replied "oh... pos hay se va" oh... just let it go, it's ok.

A closer look around the main part of Tlaco failed to convince Javier or me that this town is worthy of being included in the UNESCO list, which includes places such as El Tajin, Puebla, Queretaro Mexico; The Great wall of China; Cathedral of St. James, Croatia; Old Havana, Cuba; Historic Cairo, Egypt.   The Acropolis, Athens Greece; Old City Walls of Jerusalem; The Vatican, Rome to name a few. To be honest with the reader, I didn't see any magnificent building. Yes there a some nice picturesque fronts of homes brightly painted but I don't think they are worthy of being a heritage to humanity.

On our second day in Tlaco the multitudes started to arrive for the Fiesta de la Calendaria, the Patron Saint of the area. As usual my compadre had all his photographic equipment ready so we trotted down to the towns square, The statue of the patron saint was dressed in a new outfit inside a glass display case; ready to be carried throughout the town with a multitude of true believers following the procession. Javier gathered some courage and asked one of the ladies preparing the virgin, "Por que esta guera la estatua de la vigen?" Why is the statue of the virgin blond? "pues haci era; blanquita y muy bonita con ojitos azulitos" (recall the diminutive form of speech in Spanish?) well that the way she was beautiful, white, with blue eyes" I could sense that Javier was not happy with the answer, what he really wanted to ask why are all this mestizos paying homage to a white, blond, virgen. I could tell that he was remembering his chicano studies classes of his youth at east LA college.

As the story goes during the 1600s this area which which is surrounded by water was in danger of being destroyed by heavy rains, the river Papaloapan, was overflowing its' banks, it would destroy the town . The church bells rang summoning all of the citizens of the town and surrounding villages to the church to pray a few "novenas", "rosaries" and "padres nuestros" to the "Virgen de la Calendaria", after long hours of communal prayer, the rains subsided and the waters retreated there by saving Tlacotalpan. From then on they give thanks annually to the Virgin with a week long celebration.

To our surprise there are some local residents who don't think much about this festival, they feel that the their town is invaded by outsider and a multitude of vendors, most of them selling cheap Chinese made imitations of Mexican goods. A whole army of modern day hippies appear selling cheap shirts, cheap jewelery, incense and drug paraphernalia, "se hechan en el suelo y dejan su porqueria en el la calle", they sleep on the street and leave their filth behind. Some native Indians come to town also the sell flowers fruits, vegetables from their farms and others bring hand made dresses an hats. The place has the appearance of a week-end swap meet in the Los Angeles area with a serious shortage of portable toilets. I counted 12 for a few thousand people. But don't worry you can knock on any home that has a sign: escusado (toilet) $ 5.00 pesos,baños (shower)$ 10.00 pesos.
I guess the comment; they are just putting on make-up on the homes, churches and government buildings is correct. By the time the festival started they were still painting.












My compadre and I came here only to see the "Encuentro de Janareros" A gathering of some of the best jaranero musicians in all of Mexico, unfortunately this Divine and vibrant music which some say was born in this area, a mix of Spanish, Mestizo and African rhythms and instruments gets second billing from the organizer of the festival, they were relegated off to a small stage on a side street, while the large venue was reserved for raucous, stertorous, music the kind you can find in any common bar of Mexico.


The reader may recall from previous posts my compadre Javier, pictured here is an amateur musicologist of Mexican music he is presently researching indigenous music and the mixture of various ethnic cultures that are weaved throughout the "folklor Mexicano" one of his favorites is Jaraneros. He gave me a few lessons on the origins of the musical instruments which are direct descendants from the baroque guitar in colonial Mexico, now part of a living developing tradition. Jaranas come in various sizes; the smallest is called mosquito, with a shrill voice. Jarana primera has a high sharp voice; jarana segunda a tenor voice; jarana tercera or leona a deep sonorous voice. The best and most expensive jaranas are made from a solid piece of fine wood. Some groups will also include a tambourine and a jaw of a donkey others also have a sonaja and/or a wooden box use as a drum. All of these instrument keep in step with the dancers on the tarima.  Javier loves the tarima. Bobby and I have witnessed Javier climb the tarima he can really "tear it up". We saw him last year in Veracruz during Carnival and we've saw him here in Tlaco. The tarima is a large acoustic box where dancers climb up and dance to the rhythms of the jaranero; much like getting into a trance in the baptist church when the sinners get up to testify. Javier can really keep up with the Afro-Caribbean beat his feet feet go one way, his body and mind go another and after a few sips of "toritos", a sweet peanut butter and milk spiked with alcohol from the sugar cane, he really "gets down" on the tarima.


This is a sample of the tarima it's a wooden raised platform with holes on the sides, the dancers wear dancing shoes with strong heels and keep rhythm to the fandango being played by Jaraneros, musicians












On the poster below displays the events of the festival,  music, dancing, a horse parade, the parade of the Virgen de la Candelaria. One event which you don't see in the poster  is the brutality bestowed upon the bulls.
















Stay tuned...

Yanga part 2.

We moved freely in Yanga visiting various places. The cultural center was very small but it was closed for lunch. So we strolled down to the "mercado" the market, it was very busy with vendors calling out the freshness of their goods and the best prices in town. They all seemed to be doing a good job selling a wonderful variety of goods. In mostly all Mexican towns, people shop for their groceries every day. It is fresh, no additives or chemicals to prolong shelf life. They sell a wide variety of fruits including; papayas, guanabanas, bananas, tunas, tamarindo, guayabas etc. The vegetables and grains we saw included verdolagas, romeritos, nopalitos, frijol, abas, lentejas as well as live poultry, chivos, rabbits (Javier complained about all the flies around the meat vendors). Many housewives were purchasing items for that night's dinner.
After the open air market, we went looking for the park and statue erected in honor of Yanga.
It is an imposing monument for a town this small(about 22,000) but it does open up a chapter of Mexican history long forgotten. We asked a few citizens about the town's history but the young ones had no knowledge, they said it always been there. I spoke to the caretaker Don Ursulo, who was watering the lawn and sweeping the area. His physical features are strongly Indian and his skin is very dark. He informed me that the statue was for the slaves who worked the immense sugar cane plantations that existed during his youth. He moaned that this industry is quickly dying because young people "no saben como trabajar la tierra" they don't know how to tend the earth. They all prefer to go to "el norte" where the work isn't back breaking. " "Pero yo todavia cuido mi terrenito de caña" I still care for my cane field. I would say the gentleman was about 80 years old.
















Javier continued taking pictures. These are just a small sample of his great collection. I bid a warm goodbye to Don Ursulo the and I couldn't help notice that the poverty of the Mexican men who work the land comes with a certain amount of dignity: the dignity of their work, and their honesty. There is no free lunch here.

We were no more than two hrs. from Tlacotalpan. Javier was like a little boy on Christmas eve; he couldn't wait to get there and start filming his favorite Jaranra musical groups. I must say that I never met a men who likes music so much and who can't read a single musical note. He doesn't know the difference between middle C and G flat and worse yet, he is tone deaf... in spite of all these handicaps, Javier has a deep love for his music and a profound respect for musicians. So... were off to Tlaco.

Yanga-first free town in the Americas

My faithful co-pilot consulted his maps and charts and set the directions to Yanga after driving about an hr., through beautiful lush green, vibrant country side we were arriving at another town rich in history, all but forgotten in Mexican history. Homes were simple, their people full of pride. In the distance you could see old buildings, no doubt, old Spanish haciendas which have fallen in disrepair, forgotten by time as well as their owners. During the early day of the "Nueva España," there were thousands of African slaves working the cane fields, the slaves outnumbered the Spaniards 30 to 1. They lived in constant fear of uprisings from Indians and African slaves. The Chichimeca Indians who lived here, before the arrival of the Spaniards, were in no better condition than the Africans. During the late 1500s, there were a number of uprisings but the most successful one was led by Gaspar Yanga, an African slave who was brought to Veracruz. It is said that he was from royal family in Gabon. He became the leader of an uprising with about 500 other slaves and settled in the high mountain of Veracruz. In order to survive, he and his followers constantly raided the Spanish haciendas and the supply caravans making their way to the port of Veracruz to export the Mexican riches to Spain. Well... it seems that Yanga and his followers were more than the local garrison could handle, so the Viceroy of Spain sent the Royal army from Puebla with orders to quell the insurgents and crush Yanga. They quickly found out that this was easier said than done. Time after time, Yanga would attack the royal army and flee to the mountains where the Spaniards were outmaneuvered by guerrilla tactics and fierce fighting. After several defeats of the royal army, the Viceroy called for a treaty. In exchange for their freedom and that of all their descendants, Yanga would stop raiding the caravans. This is how the town of "San Lorenzo de Los Negros" was born with Yanga as their mayor. Later the name of the town was changed to Yanga.
Below is the sign that welcome the traveler to the town of Yanga. You can see that they are proud to have been the first town in the Americas to have freed the slaves.


































You may recall from previous entries on this blog, the location of the central plaza and the location of the building are determined. On top left is the where the civic orchestra or bands play on week ends. To the right above and below is the most important church of the town and
below left is the government building. Cont. Yanga part 2

Trip Oaxaca to Veracruz

Reluctantly we made our way out of Oaxaca, we needed to get to Tlacotalpan, Veracruz on time for the opening of the annual festival, "encuentro de jaraneros'. We would be traveling through the land of the Mechicas, also known as the cloud people in their native language. This road will eventually take us along the majestic river "Papaluapan" On a clear day you can see for ever, the green rolling hills and valleys make way for the Orizaba mountain. We stopped in the town of Cordoba just in time for an evening music festival at el zocalo. The local philharmonic and university band were having a serenade under the stars for all of its' citizens. We found this to be a very friendly town we searched for a nice hotel to stay. After settling in Javier wanted to look for his favorite tacos al pastor, unfortunately he couldn't find what he wanted. He did, however, find "tacos arabes", but he could not bring himself to try them in Mexico, a big disappointment for him, he felt that eating tacos arabes in Mexico would be a slap to his herigae, an act of betrayel
We began exploring the center of the city situated in the center of state of Veracruz but of more significant importance is the role it played in the war of Independence from Spain. It was among the first and most ardent supporter of Independence, its' citizens fought courageously because of the tremendous role, support and commitment it was names the"Most Heroic City" and as a tribute and recognition of its' importance it was chosen as the site to sign the treaty of Independence, "El Tratado de Cordova" and "El Tratado de Iguala" The signature's were Agustin Iturbide for Mexico and the last Viceroy from Spain Juan O'Donoju.
As was was reading some of this information in "el palacio municipal", Javier wondered of again. I climbed up a few stair to have a higher view in order to locate him which was not easy at first because he was in his element and with his physical characteristics he fits in; a spectacle Mexican, pudgy, grayish hair and balding head, wearing a kid's blue cap. But once I focus on a professorial looking individual talking to various citizens I knew where he was and headed straight to him, he spotted me and with excitement in his voice he exclaimed "" know where we are going next". Where? I asked "Yanga!" he repeated, " because of your studies on the ills of slavery in America you are going to like this place. "Yanga" I repeated, where is that? "you' ll find out". We continues our explorations until we were walked out we stopped in an "estanquillo" a small mom and pop store which sell small items at high prices we bought some junks food and drink, returned to the Hotel, I looked forward to my visit to "Yanga".

Stay Tuned for Yanga...

Journey Mexico City to Oaxaca

As we drove out of D.F. we could honestly say, we felt a sense of relief it seems that my blood pressure was back to normal by the change of environment, the mad rush by everyone to everywhere at the same time, toget there first was left behind! at least for a while. Javier studied the map and charted the course down carretera Mex.190, which stretches out in homage to the empty blue sky. We drove into the next Pemex station and its' sidekick, Oxxo store for what has become a morning ritual, fill up with gas and our morning cafecito. About 120 kilometers down Mex.190 we came upon the city of Puebla more precisely known as the Heroic City of "Puebla de Zaragoza". Because of its industry, historical and cultural treasures it one of the most important cities in Mexico, therefore we felt that it would be better to plan an extended trip exclusively to Puebla in a future date.
We continued on to Oaxaca. After a few hrs. of polemic conversation with Javier on various topics we arrived in Oaxaca, and followed the "Monte Alban" roadway, this state has the distinction of having the largest concentration of archaeological sites. The most famous is Monte Alban (a name given to it by the Spaniards in the 17th. century) This was the center of the Zapotec nation which maintained its' political, ideological, economical and religious control over all the other communities. The early settlers were the Mixtec and Zapotec cultures they paved the way for present day Oaxacan culture. In your visit to Mote Alban you will find an array of buildings each with its' unique purpose; religious temples, scientific study, astronomical observations, royalty quarters, ball courts and a museum. Also a museums' store with a plethora of souvenirs, pictures and books of this unforgettable place.











After an instructive morning and a bit of exercises at Monte Alban we drove straight to the town square or "el zocalo" of Oaxaca. We have mentioned before that we always head straight for the zocalo, perhaps a little clarification of what a zocalo is would be helpful. You may remember in your high school classes that the Spaniards conquered Mexico with the "sword and the cross" this concept is illustrated with how the government and the church would work together in building the zocalos, in every Mexican town . The Zocalo or center of a city/town would be established by taking into account the cardinal points and symbology. The cathedral or church would be established usually over Indian religious or burial sites. (i.e spiritual power). On the other side/cardinal point, of the of the church, the municipal buildings (the base of civil power). The square would irradiate throughout the city with the balance between the terrestrial and the sacred; Church & Government Power. The rest of the square is surrounded by coffee houses, restaurants, hotels ice cream parlors, the life in the center of town.
Of all the zocalos I have visited, I consider Oaxacas' zocalo to be the most beautiful. I asked Javier for his opinion, after trying to make his case for the zocalo of his birth city of Zacatecas he reluctantly agreed with me. We found a table to our liking, in front of a colonial style restaurant, shaded by the canopy of enormous Laurel trees and the sounds of water coming from a gigantic water fountain in the center of the park. The waitress approached and said "buenas tardes gustan tomar algo?" Javier responded quickly "si dos negras modelo por favor", remember the best beer in Mexico? He was mesmerized by the natural beauty of the park and began taking pictures. As we looked around all of the people seemed to be doing the same thing we were doing; passing the time, observing the young ladies go by, listening to strolling musicians, saying no to flower vendors or artisans, people enjoying cafecito de la olla or chocolatito caliente or tequilita. For some reason in Spanish some words seem to get the diminutive form (ito or ita) added to them when they are being warmly enjoyed or received.
After a nice lunch we visited "el palcio municipal" and the cathedral, walked around the town looking inside the beautiful colonial buildings and streets.
Javier, being a strong and faithful
member of the Catholic church went into the cathedral for along time. I
think he had a great deal to confess.
so I left him with his thoughts, while I enjoyed another "cervecita" in "el zocalo". Here to the right is Javier coming out of the cathedral. We usually visit all the cathedrals or churches we see in the zocalos. Their historical, religious and artistic value gives us an insight of the struggles in the building of a Nation. We also see the great pain and suffering in the faces people who enter hoping to find solutions to some very personal and difficult problems that can only be solved by a higher power. Some pin a small gift on the cloth or light a candle as a sign of their gratitude to their special saint.










Javier practiced his Spanish and continued his quest of learning continuously the best way to find the roads out of town. He asked at least eight persons "Cual es la mejor carretera para "Tlacotalpan, Veracruz?" Which is the best road out of town to Tlacotalpan, Veracruz. He charted the way and off we went.

Stay tuned...