As my compadre and I debriefed our stay in Tlacotalpan, we agreed we had achieved our objective; listening to some outstanding musical Jaranero groups . We learned a great deal about the music, decimas, dances and culture of this beautiful part of Mexico Lindo. We also decide to, cut our stay short. Early next morning we were on the road heading north on Mex.180. The unspoiled, natural beauty of the countryside leaves you breathless. We leisurely continued north admiring the open spaces and hills adorned with the wonderful aroma of coffee, citrus groves and vanilla plantations. Soon we were turning onto Mex 130., After a few hrs. on the road we arrived in Papantla, the magical town, also known as the city that perfumes the world, a quaint colonial town with all the comforts of home. Built on the side of a mountain slope with cool breezes that constantly sweep through the town. We found a nice quiet hotel, after checking in we strolled around the town searching for a restaurant, eager to taste the local cuisine. The reader may recall that Javier considers himself a budding poet and song writer, so when he saw the name of a restaurant he exclaimed, "aqui vamos a comer", the restaurant's name "Por si acaso me recuerdas" If by chance you remember me.
My compadre felt the name was poetry :) located in calle Juan Enriquez #102 Papantla Mex. I felt that the real poetry was the food. A very intimate place no more than six tables. The cuisine? typical home cooking from Veracruz all prepared by Doña Rufina a friendly, jovial woman.Her husband Don Roque eagerly sat us down and explained the menu. We ordered a delicacy know as nopalitos con costillitas de puerco en mole, rice and black beans with tortillas calientitas topped off with a refreshing negramodelo, it was delicious. After our delightful meal and pleasant conversation with Conchita our waitress, we strolled slowly back to our hotel.
Papantla is popular place for tourist who are interested in ancient civilizations, the two main attractions in Papantla are the archaeological site at "El Tajin" and the "Voladores". The following morning, we got an early start and headed to "El Tajin" which means the place of rain and thunder in the Totonac language.
We arrived early, the morning was cool and crisp
and we were the first visitors in the center which means we had the place all to ourselves for the least two hours or so.
It is generally believed that the Totonacan civilization is responsible for building the site.
As we walked in we were drawn to a magnificent pyramid named "Piramide de los Nichoes" It is believed that it's 365 niches represent a calendar year it is said that they would light a small fire in each niche which marked the passing of time. The pyramid is also considered as one of the finest pre-Colombian Pyramids in Mexico.
Javier welcoming us to El Tajin
El Tajin has been recognized as a world heritage site by UNESCO it is also the archaeological place which displays the highest degree of artistry in the coastal area of Mexico. It is believed that El Tajin reached its peak between AD 650-1200. During this time hundreds of of native structure were build in this region. It wasn't until 1785 when Spanish engineers happened upon the site.
Above you can see the Pyramid "de los nichoes"
The site is meticulously kept, you can find a museum a souvenir
shop and a number of vendors and restaurants at the entrance
Throughout the day you can see the "Voladores de Papantla"
perform their dance and rituals. If you visit come early and have
a great time without the crowds.
Stay tuned:
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