We are arriving in Tlacotalpan, Veracruz. We are crossing the mighty river Papaloapan from the south.
We arrived in Tlacotalpan. As the readers may know this town was selected by the United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organization, UNESCO, to the list of of World Heritage sites. After witnessing the savage cruelty bestowed upon helpless farm animals by visitors and local alike with the approval of the local government. I would strongly suggest that UNESCO reconsider the inclusion of this town as a "world heritage site".
As I understand the reason why it is included on this coveted list, is the colonial architecture, Give me a break! a better example of this architecture can be found in Cuba and Puerto Rico. Personally I fail to see any overwhelming, distinguishing architectural differences from any other historical towns in Mexico Lindo.
Here is a sample of the kiosk in the central plaza, with it's Moorish influence and a typical home, are these really classic examples of Caribbean architecture???
We arrived on a Friday afternoon the festival would open next morning Saturday, therefore we were able to see the preparations or as a local small businessman called "le estan poniendo maquillage", they're just putting make-up on the town. We saw dozen of people painting the front of their homes with lively colors . Three churches around the plaza area, the two adjacent to the central park were being haphazardly painted by young man hanging from ropes slapping cheap paint on the walls. Scaffolding's are not known here. Preparing the walls; scrapping old paint, cleaning mildew, filling crack is an unknown practice, on the other hand, slapping paint over dirt and mildew is fine. Don't worry about the dripping gobs of paint on the floor, I asked one of the painters "why don't you put a drop cloth or newspaper at the edge of the wall to keep from dripping paint on the floor" he replied "oh... pos hay se va" oh... just let it go, it's ok.
A closer look around the main part of Tlaco failed to convince Javier or me that this town is worthy of being included in the UNESCO list, which includes places such as El Tajin, Puebla, Queretaro Mexico; The Great wall of China; Cathedral of St. James, Croatia; Old Havana, Cuba; Historic Cairo, Egypt. The Acropolis, Athens Greece; Old City Walls of Jerusalem; The Vatican, Rome to name a few. To be honest with the reader, I didn't see any magnificent building. Yes there a some nice picturesque fronts of homes brightly painted but I don't think they are worthy of being a heritage to humanity.
On our second day in Tlaco the multitudes started to arrive for the Fiesta de la Calendaria, the Patron Saint of the area. As usual my compadre had all his photographic equipment ready so we trotted down to the towns square, The statue of the patron saint was dressed in a new outfit inside a glass display case; ready to be carried throughout the town with a multitude of true believers following the procession. Javier gathered some courage and asked one of the ladies preparing the virgin, "Por que esta guera la estatua de la vigen?" Why is the statue of the virgin blond? "pues haci era; blanquita y muy bonita con ojitos azulitos" (recall the diminutive form of speech in Spanish?) well that the way she was beautiful, white, with blue eyes" I could sense that Javier was not happy with the answer, what he really wanted to ask why are all this mestizos paying homage to a white, blond, virgen. I could tell that he was remembering his chicano studies classes of his youth at east LA college.
As the story goes during the 1600s this area which which is surrounded by water was in danger of being destroyed by heavy rains, the river Papaloapan, was overflowing its' banks, it would destroy the town . The church bells rang summoning all of the citizens of the town and surrounding villages to the church to pray a few "novenas", "rosaries" and "padres nuestros" to the "Virgen de la Calendaria", after long hours of communal prayer, the rains subsided and the waters retreated there by saving Tlacotalpan. From then on they give thanks annually to the Virgin with a week long celebration.
To our surprise there are some local residents who don't think much about this festival, they feel that the their town is invaded by outsider and a multitude of vendors, most of them selling cheap Chinese made imitations of Mexican goods. A whole army of modern day hippies appear selling cheap shirts, cheap jewelery, incense and drug paraphernalia, "se hechan en el suelo y dejan su porqueria en el la calle", they sleep on the street and leave their filth behind. Some native Indians come to town also the sell flowers fruits, vegetables from their farms and others bring hand made dresses an hats. The place has the appearance of a week-end swap meet in the Los Angeles area with a serious shortage of portable toilets. I counted 12 for a few thousand people. But don't worry you can knock on any home that has a sign: escusado (toilet) $ 5.00 pesos,baños (shower)$ 10.00 pesos.
I guess the comment; they are just putting on make-up on the homes, churches and government buildings is correct. By the time the festival started they were still painting.
My compadre and I came here only to see the "Encuentro de Janareros" A gathering of some of the best jaranero musicians in all of Mexico, unfortunately this Divine and vibrant music which some say was born in this area, a mix of Spanish, Mestizo and African rhythms and instruments gets second billing from the organizer of the festival, they were relegated off to a small stage on a side street, while the large venue was reserved for raucous, stertorous, music the kind you can find in any common bar of Mexico.
The reader may recall from previous posts my compadre Javier, pictured here is an amateur musicologist of Mexican music he is presently researching indigenous music and the mixture of various ethnic cultures that are weaved throughout the "folklor Mexicano" one of his favorites is Jaraneros. He gave me a few lessons on the origins of the musical instruments which are direct descendants from the baroque guitar in colonial Mexico, now part of a living developing tradition. Jaranas come in various sizes; the smallest is called mosquito, with a shrill voice. Jarana primera has a high sharp voice; jarana segunda a tenor voice; jarana tercera or leona a deep sonorous voice. The best and most expensive jaranas are made from a solid piece of fine wood. Some groups will also include a tambourine and a jaw of a donkey others also have a sonaja and/or a wooden box use as a drum. All of these instrument keep in step with the dancers on the tarima. Javier loves the tarima. Bobby and I have witnessed Javier climb the tarima he can really "tear it up". We saw him last year in Veracruz during Carnival and we've saw him here in Tlaco. The tarima is a large acoustic box where dancers climb up and dance to the rhythms of the jaranero; much like getting into a trance in the baptist church when the sinners get up to testify. Javier can really keep up with the Afro-Caribbean beat his feet feet go one way, his body and mind go another and after a few sips of "toritos", a sweet peanut butter and milk spiked with alcohol from the sugar cane, he really "gets down" on the tarima.
This is a sample of the tarima it's a wooden raised platform with holes on the sides, the dancers wear dancing shoes with strong heels and keep rhythm to the fandango being played by Jaraneros, musicians
On the poster below displays the events of the festival, music, dancing, a horse parade, the parade of the Virgen de la Candelaria. One event which you don't see in the poster is the brutality bestowed upon the bulls.
Stay tuned...
As I understand the reason why it is included on this coveted list, is the colonial architecture, Give me a break! a better example of this architecture can be found in Cuba and Puerto Rico. Personally I fail to see any overwhelming, distinguishing architectural differences from any other historical towns in Mexico Lindo.
Here is a sample of the kiosk in the central plaza, with it's Moorish influence and a typical home, are these really classic examples of Caribbean architecture???
We arrived on a Friday afternoon the festival would open next morning Saturday, therefore we were able to see the preparations or as a local small businessman called "le estan poniendo maquillage", they're just putting make-up on the town. We saw dozen of people painting the front of their homes with lively colors . Three churches around the plaza area, the two adjacent to the central park were being haphazardly painted by young man hanging from ropes slapping cheap paint on the walls. Scaffolding's are not known here. Preparing the walls; scrapping old paint, cleaning mildew, filling crack is an unknown practice, on the other hand, slapping paint over dirt and mildew is fine. Don't worry about the dripping gobs of paint on the floor, I asked one of the painters "why don't you put a drop cloth or newspaper at the edge of the wall to keep from dripping paint on the floor" he replied "oh... pos hay se va" oh... just let it go, it's ok.
A closer look around the main part of Tlaco failed to convince Javier or me that this town is worthy of being included in the UNESCO list, which includes places such as El Tajin, Puebla, Queretaro Mexico; The Great wall of China; Cathedral of St. James, Croatia; Old Havana, Cuba; Historic Cairo, Egypt. The Acropolis, Athens Greece; Old City Walls of Jerusalem; The Vatican, Rome to name a few. To be honest with the reader, I didn't see any magnificent building. Yes there a some nice picturesque fronts of homes brightly painted but I don't think they are worthy of being a heritage to humanity.
On our second day in Tlaco the multitudes started to arrive for the Fiesta de la Calendaria, the Patron Saint of the area. As usual my compadre had all his photographic equipment ready so we trotted down to the towns square, The statue of the patron saint was dressed in a new outfit inside a glass display case; ready to be carried throughout the town with a multitude of true believers following the procession. Javier gathered some courage and asked one of the ladies preparing the virgin, "Por que esta guera la estatua de la vigen?" Why is the statue of the virgin blond? "pues haci era; blanquita y muy bonita con ojitos azulitos" (recall the diminutive form of speech in Spanish?) well that the way she was beautiful, white, with blue eyes" I could sense that Javier was not happy with the answer, what he really wanted to ask why are all this mestizos paying homage to a white, blond, virgen. I could tell that he was remembering his chicano studies classes of his youth at east LA college.
As the story goes during the 1600s this area which which is surrounded by water was in danger of being destroyed by heavy rains, the river Papaloapan, was overflowing its' banks, it would destroy the town . The church bells rang summoning all of the citizens of the town and surrounding villages to the church to pray a few "novenas", "rosaries" and "padres nuestros" to the "Virgen de la Calendaria", after long hours of communal prayer, the rains subsided and the waters retreated there by saving Tlacotalpan. From then on they give thanks annually to the Virgin with a week long celebration.
To our surprise there are some local residents who don't think much about this festival, they feel that the their town is invaded by outsider and a multitude of vendors, most of them selling cheap Chinese made imitations of Mexican goods. A whole army of modern day hippies appear selling cheap shirts, cheap jewelery, incense and drug paraphernalia, "se hechan en el suelo y dejan su porqueria en el la calle", they sleep on the street and leave their filth behind. Some native Indians come to town also the sell flowers fruits, vegetables from their farms and others bring hand made dresses an hats. The place has the appearance of a week-end swap meet in the Los Angeles area with a serious shortage of portable toilets. I counted 12 for a few thousand people. But don't worry you can knock on any home that has a sign: escusado (toilet) $ 5.00 pesos,baños (shower)$ 10.00 pesos.
I guess the comment; they are just putting on make-up on the homes, churches and government buildings is correct. By the time the festival started they were still painting.
My compadre and I came here only to see the "Encuentro de Janareros" A gathering of some of the best jaranero musicians in all of Mexico, unfortunately this Divine and vibrant music which some say was born in this area, a mix of Spanish, Mestizo and African rhythms and instruments gets second billing from the organizer of the festival, they were relegated off to a small stage on a side street, while the large venue was reserved for raucous, stertorous, music the kind you can find in any common bar of Mexico.
The reader may recall from previous posts my compadre Javier, pictured here is an amateur musicologist of Mexican music he is presently researching indigenous music and the mixture of various ethnic cultures that are weaved throughout the "folklor Mexicano" one of his favorites is Jaraneros. He gave me a few lessons on the origins of the musical instruments which are direct descendants from the baroque guitar in colonial Mexico, now part of a living developing tradition. Jaranas come in various sizes; the smallest is called mosquito, with a shrill voice. Jarana primera has a high sharp voice; jarana segunda a tenor voice; jarana tercera or leona a deep sonorous voice. The best and most expensive jaranas are made from a solid piece of fine wood. Some groups will also include a tambourine and a jaw of a donkey others also have a sonaja and/or a wooden box use as a drum. All of these instrument keep in step with the dancers on the tarima. Javier loves the tarima. Bobby and I have witnessed Javier climb the tarima he can really "tear it up". We saw him last year in Veracruz during Carnival and we've saw him here in Tlaco. The tarima is a large acoustic box where dancers climb up and dance to the rhythms of the jaranero; much like getting into a trance in the baptist church when the sinners get up to testify. Javier can really keep up with the Afro-Caribbean beat his feet feet go one way, his body and mind go another and after a few sips of "toritos", a sweet peanut butter and milk spiked with alcohol from the sugar cane, he really "gets down" on the tarima.
This is a sample of the tarima it's a wooden raised platform with holes on the sides, the dancers wear dancing shoes with strong heels and keep rhythm to the fandango being played by Jaraneros, musicians
On the poster below displays the events of the festival, music, dancing, a horse parade, the parade of the Virgen de la Candelaria. One event which you don't see in the poster is the brutality bestowed upon the bulls.
Stay tuned...
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