El Tajin; Veracruz,Travel

As my compadre and I debriefed our stay in Tlacotalpan, we agreed we had achieved our objective; listening to some outstanding musical Jaranero groups . We learned a great deal about the music, decimas, dances and culture of this beautiful part of Mexico Lindo. We also decide to, cut our stay short. Early next morning we were on the road heading north on Mex.180. The unspoiled, natural beauty of the countryside leaves you breathless. We leisurely continued north admiring the open spaces and hills adorned with the wonderful aroma of coffee, citrus groves and vanilla plantations. Soon we were turning onto Mex 130., After a few hrs. on the road we arrived in Papantla, the magical town, also known as the city that perfumes the world, a quaint colonial town with all the comforts of home. Built on the side of a mountain slope with cool breezes that constantly sweep through the town. We found a nice quiet hotel, after checking in we strolled around the town searching for a restaurant, eager to taste the local cuisine. The reader may recall that Javier considers himself a budding poet and song writer, so when he saw the name of a restaurant he exclaimed, "aqui vamos a comer", the restaurant's name "Por si acaso me recuerdas" If by chance you remember me.
My compadre felt the name was poetry :) located in calle Juan Enriquez #102 Papantla Mex. I felt that the real poetry was the food. A very intimate place no more than six tables. The cuisine? typical home cooking from Veracruz all prepared by Doña Rufina a friendly, jovial woman.Her husband Don Roque eagerly sat us down and explained the menu. We ordered a delicacy know as nopalitos con costillitas de puerco en mole, rice and black beans with tortillas calientitas topped off with a refreshing negramodelo, it was delicious. After our delightful meal and pleasant conversation with Conchita our waitress, we strolled slowly back to our hotel.
Papantla is popular place for tourist who are interested in ancient civilizations, the two main attractions in Papantla are the archaeological site at "El Tajin" and the "Voladores". The following morning, we got an early start and headed to "El Tajin" which means the place of rain and thunder in the Totonac language.
We arrived early, the morning was cool and crisp
and we were the first visitors in the center which means we had the place all to ourselves for the least two hours or so.
It is generally believed that the Totonacan civilization is responsible for building the site.
As we walked in we were drawn to a magnificent pyramid named "Piramide de los Nichoes" It is believed that it's 365 niches represent a calendar year it is said that they would light a small fire in each niche which marked the passing of time. The pyramid is also considered as one of the finest pre-Colombian Pyramids in Mexico.

Javier welcoming us to El Tajin

El Tajin has been recognized as a world heritage site by UNESCO it is also the archaeological place which displays the highest degree of artistry in the coastal area of Mexico. It is believed that El Tajin reached its peak between AD 650-1200. During this time hundreds of of native structure were build in this region. It wasn't until 1785 when Spanish engineers happened upon the site.



Above you can see the Pyramid "de los nichoes"

The site is meticulously kept, you can find a museum a souvenir
shop and a number of vendors and restaurants at the entrance
Throughout the day you can see the "Voladores de Papantla"
perform their dance and rituals. If you visit come early and have
a great time without the crowds.





Stay tuned:

Tlacotalpan the torturing of the bulls

We rose early and walked over to the town square for a nice breakfast before the crowds gathered. But to our surprise thousandths of people all dressed in red T-shirts were milling around, with some liter size beers, waiting for the running of the bulls. The t-shirt vendors had a real good day with their sales. The music coming out of many establishment also got an early start.

With the sun warming up the day, and the crowd growing rowdy with beer consumption. A wave of humanity moved slowly towards the shores of the river Papaloapan because for some sadistic enjoyment by the organizers of this event they bring the bulls from the other side of the river, some 300 yard of water torture inflicted on the bulls. When they reach the shore they are exhausted! Note the head of the bull is under water above. But the torturing and cruelty to these farm animal by the collective humanity gathered here in Tlacotalpan is shameful and just getting started.This is no running of the bulls like in Pamplona, Spain. This is the chasing of frightened farm animals, the inflicting of pain and suffering ranging from pulling their tails, kicking them, jumping on them when they are so exhausted that they just drop to the ground foaming at the mouth and letting out shrills of pain.




Would you think this is a fighting bull? of course not, it is a frightened one, quivering and frozen in place, note the bruises on its' legs from kicks it received from the courageous drunks because he would not move.










This is one of those brave drunk bull runners who felt "macho" and jump on top of an exhausted animal. It couldn't stand because they ran him down all over the village till he dropped.
This is a polluted gathering of of drunks whose only purpose, with government approval, is to buy beer and unleash random acts of cruelty on these animals. The towns' government is guilty of malicious indifference and complicity in condoning the sick behavior and atrocities committed in their " heritage to humanity town?" Give me a break!







This bull top and right is not dead he is "dead tired". They ran him all over the town, hoards of people chased him and them others on horse back chased him some more until it dropped. The fools standing around it were disappointed because he couldn't get up, so the would kick him, note the blood on the floor. Its' mouth was foaming as it let out a frightening squeal, bellowing as if it was crying out for help.

This bull was tied down to a post, I asked one of the persons, "por que lo amarras? Why do you tie him down? he replied "porque no quiere correr mas" he doen't want to run anymore. I asked him"crees que esto es un gran deporte para Tlacotalpan, mira como esta sangrado," Do you think this is a great sporting event for Tlacotalpan? look how he is bleeding" he replied, " si no tegusta pues no vengas" If you don't like it don't come back.
Well, he had a good point, I don't like this type of cruelty to farm animals used to plow their lands. I don't like the abuse tolerated by the local government, the mayor of the town was speaking that same evening on what a great event they hosted annually and she said that not one hair of any bull was hurt. Here is the proof, she lied. And I for one, will never be back to spend my tourist dollars in the sick cruel town of Tlacotalpan. I repeat, this town is not worthy of being a world heritage site.

Stay tuned... for a real world heritage site El tajin

Encuetro de Jaraneros at Tlacotalpan

We are arriving in Tlacotalpan, Veracruz. We are crossing the mighty river Papaloapan from the south.

We arrived in Tlacotalpan. As the readers may know this town was selected by the United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organization, UNESCO, to the list of of World Heritage sites. After witnessing the savage cruelty bestowed upon helpless farm animals by visitors and local alike with the approval of the local government. I would strongly suggest that UNESCO reconsider the inclusion of this town as a "world heritage site".
As I understand the reason why it is included on this coveted list, is the colonial architecture, Give me a break! a better example of this architecture can be found in Cuba and Puerto Rico. Personally I fail to see any overwhelming, distinguishing architectural differences from any other historical towns in Mexico Lindo.



Here is a sample of the kiosk in the central plaza, with it's Moorish influence and a typical home, are these really classic examples of Caribbean architecture???



We arrived on a Friday afternoon the festival would open next morning Saturday, therefore we were able to see the preparations or as a local small businessman called "le estan poniendo maquillage", they're just putting make-up on the town. We saw dozen of people painting the front of their homes with lively colors . Three churches around the plaza area, the two adjacent to the central park were being haphazardly painted by young man hanging from ropes slapping cheap paint on the walls. Scaffolding's are not known here. Preparing the walls; scrapping old paint, cleaning mildew, filling crack is an unknown practice, on the other hand, slapping paint over dirt and mildew is fine. Don't worry about the dripping gobs of paint on the floor, I asked one of the painters "why don't you put a drop cloth or newspaper at the edge of the wall to keep from dripping paint on the floor" he replied "oh... pos hay se va" oh... just let it go, it's ok.

A closer look around the main part of Tlaco failed to convince Javier or me that this town is worthy of being included in the UNESCO list, which includes places such as El Tajin, Puebla, Queretaro Mexico; The Great wall of China; Cathedral of St. James, Croatia; Old Havana, Cuba; Historic Cairo, Egypt.   The Acropolis, Athens Greece; Old City Walls of Jerusalem; The Vatican, Rome to name a few. To be honest with the reader, I didn't see any magnificent building. Yes there a some nice picturesque fronts of homes brightly painted but I don't think they are worthy of being a heritage to humanity.

On our second day in Tlaco the multitudes started to arrive for the Fiesta de la Calendaria, the Patron Saint of the area. As usual my compadre had all his photographic equipment ready so we trotted down to the towns square, The statue of the patron saint was dressed in a new outfit inside a glass display case; ready to be carried throughout the town with a multitude of true believers following the procession. Javier gathered some courage and asked one of the ladies preparing the virgin, "Por que esta guera la estatua de la vigen?" Why is the statue of the virgin blond? "pues haci era; blanquita y muy bonita con ojitos azulitos" (recall the diminutive form of speech in Spanish?) well that the way she was beautiful, white, with blue eyes" I could sense that Javier was not happy with the answer, what he really wanted to ask why are all this mestizos paying homage to a white, blond, virgen. I could tell that he was remembering his chicano studies classes of his youth at east LA college.

As the story goes during the 1600s this area which which is surrounded by water was in danger of being destroyed by heavy rains, the river Papaloapan, was overflowing its' banks, it would destroy the town . The church bells rang summoning all of the citizens of the town and surrounding villages to the church to pray a few "novenas", "rosaries" and "padres nuestros" to the "Virgen de la Calendaria", after long hours of communal prayer, the rains subsided and the waters retreated there by saving Tlacotalpan. From then on they give thanks annually to the Virgin with a week long celebration.

To our surprise there are some local residents who don't think much about this festival, they feel that the their town is invaded by outsider and a multitude of vendors, most of them selling cheap Chinese made imitations of Mexican goods. A whole army of modern day hippies appear selling cheap shirts, cheap jewelery, incense and drug paraphernalia, "se hechan en el suelo y dejan su porqueria en el la calle", they sleep on the street and leave their filth behind. Some native Indians come to town also the sell flowers fruits, vegetables from their farms and others bring hand made dresses an hats. The place has the appearance of a week-end swap meet in the Los Angeles area with a serious shortage of portable toilets. I counted 12 for a few thousand people. But don't worry you can knock on any home that has a sign: escusado (toilet) $ 5.00 pesos,baños (shower)$ 10.00 pesos.
I guess the comment; they are just putting on make-up on the homes, churches and government buildings is correct. By the time the festival started they were still painting.












My compadre and I came here only to see the "Encuentro de Janareros" A gathering of some of the best jaranero musicians in all of Mexico, unfortunately this Divine and vibrant music which some say was born in this area, a mix of Spanish, Mestizo and African rhythms and instruments gets second billing from the organizer of the festival, they were relegated off to a small stage on a side street, while the large venue was reserved for raucous, stertorous, music the kind you can find in any common bar of Mexico.


The reader may recall from previous posts my compadre Javier, pictured here is an amateur musicologist of Mexican music he is presently researching indigenous music and the mixture of various ethnic cultures that are weaved throughout the "folklor Mexicano" one of his favorites is Jaraneros. He gave me a few lessons on the origins of the musical instruments which are direct descendants from the baroque guitar in colonial Mexico, now part of a living developing tradition. Jaranas come in various sizes; the smallest is called mosquito, with a shrill voice. Jarana primera has a high sharp voice; jarana segunda a tenor voice; jarana tercera or leona a deep sonorous voice. The best and most expensive jaranas are made from a solid piece of fine wood. Some groups will also include a tambourine and a jaw of a donkey others also have a sonaja and/or a wooden box use as a drum. All of these instrument keep in step with the dancers on the tarima.  Javier loves the tarima. Bobby and I have witnessed Javier climb the tarima he can really "tear it up". We saw him last year in Veracruz during Carnival and we've saw him here in Tlaco. The tarima is a large acoustic box where dancers climb up and dance to the rhythms of the jaranero; much like getting into a trance in the baptist church when the sinners get up to testify. Javier can really keep up with the Afro-Caribbean beat his feet feet go one way, his body and mind go another and after a few sips of "toritos", a sweet peanut butter and milk spiked with alcohol from the sugar cane, he really "gets down" on the tarima.


This is a sample of the tarima it's a wooden raised platform with holes on the sides, the dancers wear dancing shoes with strong heels and keep rhythm to the fandango being played by Jaraneros, musicians












On the poster below displays the events of the festival,  music, dancing, a horse parade, the parade of the Virgen de la Candelaria. One event which you don't see in the poster  is the brutality bestowed upon the bulls.
















Stay tuned...